With a Samsung Solar Remote in-hand, you are ready to take it apart. It’s a sleek, black elongated piece of technology that fits snuggly into your hand. But be careful… Opening this thing will require some precision.
To start, simply set the remote down on a flat surface. At first glance, no obvious screws jumps out.
Internal components and inspection
But where is the real way in? There’s a small little screw up on the top edge that you find. You have to do it with a precision screwdriver (standard tools would of just strip the head).
Slowly you turn the screw and it fights you. But then it yields. Once you take that screw out the case start to give.
With your fingers, you pry open the two halves. Gently, you work around the edges because the plastic clips holds the unit together tightly. With one side it just pops free; with the other side you need a little more pressure. You don’t force it. You can’t crack the shell. And at last, the cover come apart to reveal what’s inside.
When you open it up, however, it’s quite basic. It’s mostly covered in a green circuit board. There are some surface mount component strewn about the board, and some of them is white capacitors. They’re all clearly marked. You see the specs.
Four are marked as 10µF 25V VPC. Those numbers is important because those are for power regulation. Other components is connected via a flexible white ribbon cable that has obvious solder points. It’s delicate though, and you treat it gently.
Inside, there’s still the black screen. Removing it takes time. You tinker carefully with the innards. Everything seem to be secure, nothing wobbles.
A closer look at the board show even more. Circular depressions in the plastic case probably indicate alignment or gripping points. There’s very little wasted space. The components are densely packed, and there is little empty space. Everything has a place.
Losing parts would be a disaster, so you keep the casing nearby. It doesn’t bend much. It feels solid. Pick everything up and check out the connections. The ribbon cable are intact. There were no frayed wire anywhere. It’s well built.
Looking closer you can see words inscribed onto the board. It says “Made In China” as well as “REV 1.0“, which means it was manufactured in china. There aren’t really any brands on there for the circuitry just codes. The wypc vpc capacitors is all over it too. Parts seem consistent.
Don’t take anything out at this point. First you’d like to know what’s going on. Your right hand still holds the board, and the housing component stay in your left hand.
Balance is key.
Other capacitors is on the back of the board. This time, there are six white ones, Hy+Cap VPC WNA Tech. They have a 50F capacity and 3.8V voltage rating. So these are supercapacitors to hold charge for the remote.
It’s all guided with silkscreen text so you know what it is. These are labeled CHARGE, LITHIUM, OUTPUT, etc. They’re model numbers: 1ZSL3E ESD XL and P172. They all confirm it’s the same board version.
Then you place the casing pieces back on the mat. Here’s the remote in all its detail. You had no luck hiding anything.
Once you remove the screw, it’s a simple matter of prying. They think it’s held together with glue, but it isn’t. One screw is doing all the work.
Use gentle force to pry it apart. Hard pulls break the clips; slow and steady wins the race here. Be careful with that ribbon cable because those parts are delicate. Don’t yank on it. Don’t short those caps, or they can be damaged.
Disassemble and move along, nothing goes wrong. Looks like your remote is clean on the inside. Everything is in its proper place. No junk, no dust. Good for a thorough cleaning or a quick fix. Repeat as necessary.
